6th-14th September
When I left Gibraltar it was raining again and yet 3 miles on it was a clear starry sky, do you think if they renounced the UK their weather would improve? Well today’s target was an anchorage off Fuengirola which I duly reached, the beach was packed and from all the music that was still playing as I raised my anchor and sailed away at 5 a.m. they sure were having a good time. My next stop was Motril where I had intended to anchor in the lee of huge commercial dock but as I passed the local marina a marinero waved me in and helped secure to a berth, I stayed here two days why I have no idea it was as bland as any seaside resort could be with nothing to offer in fact the most fun I had was dodging the largest cockroaches I have ever seen in the toilets!! Debbie would have loved that! There was no tourist information office……I think that says it all.
I left and sailed on along the Costa del Sol towards Almerimar a beautiful modern purpose built marina complex near the south east corner of Spain, it was well run and heaving with Northern Europeans, particularly Brits, who planned to winter there and I couldn’t blame them it was certainly better than a retirement home in Leeds.
All along the Costa del Sol runs a dramatic range of mountains sometimes falling straight into the sea and sometimes leaving a thin costal strip which is ei

ther covered in hotels or more likely in acres of plastic sheeting under which grows Northern Europe’s vegetables and salads. When you reach Cape de Gata, the south east tip of Spain, there standing at the boundary between Costas del Sol and Blanca is a towering white limestone pillar after which the rock is more beige than white, having said that Costa del Beige doesn’t have quite the same ring to it does it? It was just as I rounded the cape that flying fish started appearing, first one then a couple more then every minute or so a shoal would emerge from the waves and glide effortlessly across 50 m of sea using their rear fins like a rudder, well they all do apart from one which unceremoniously crashed straight in to the side of the boat with a dull thud.
My next anchorage was in Carbonares, off a pretty town which unfortunately was also downwind f

rom a particularly smelly power station and cement factory so off again north east to Cartagena which was a city I was looking forward to seeing, I woke early around 3 a.m. and decided to set off so I motored out in no wind under a cloudless sky until about 11 am when I saw in the distance a dark line on the sea; at first I though this was a point where two currents met but as it raced towards me I knew is was something much worse……it was the Levanter……the dreaded NW wind…..it came out of nowhere and when it hit me my wind gauge went from 0 to 30 knots in the space of 20 seconds the boat heeled over then raced away at 6 knots

under mainsail alone…..the wind settled back to 20-25 knots I reefed the main and put out the foresail and sat there grinning as I raced along at a terrific lick… unfortunately the wind veered round to a north easterly right on my nose and I had to start tacking up through the crashing waves and this carried on for the next 9 long hours…. I was knackered, the boat was trashed…the cooker broke its hinges ending up wedged against the toilet and I jarred every bone in my body…..it was the hardest days sailing since Lands End and I was mightily relieved as I entered Cartagena harbour about 7.30 that night.
I was expecting a lot from Cartagena, it was founded by the Carthaginians, it was the starting point for Hannibal and his elephants, it had been a great Roman centre and the US fleet had used it for many years as their main base in the region. Well it was not a patch on Cadiz but it was the

most interesting place I’ve visited since…..no plastic elephants but plenty of ruins and a submarine, apparently the inventor, a Mr. Isaac Peral, was born here. The first photo is of the marina looking towards the city, the second the submarine, the third the city hall outside of which I am sitting using their wifi and the final picture is of the historic Arsenal.
Tomorrow I’m off to Torrevieja for one or two nights then Alicante, Moraira then over to San Antonio in Ibiza which I last visited as a 4 yr old …… I wonder if it’s changed?